Bumpy ride to the dead(ly) city

It turns out that getting to Laos is not the end of all troubles, since moving around the country can be just as complicated. We have checked the distances before and thought it would all be a piece of cake, until we discovered, that an express bus needs at least 8 hours to drive the 300 km which were separating us from the capital of the country. And we have been warned it would not be a pleasant ride. We decided we needed an additional stop on the way, a place we could stay for a night or two before we hit the road again. Vang Vieng seemed to be a perfect option. Nice little town with friendly people, surrounded by water, mountains, caves and rain forest. But the reputation of this place was not really inviting, at least not as far as we were concerned. The biggest party spot in Southeast Asia, full of drunken or/and stoned foreign tourists, creating a massive chaos, which often ended with death casualties. We were not exactly tempted. At least until we asked a local tourist agency for advice. They told us Vang Vieng is not the city it used to be and we needn't worry about the stories we have heard before, as it's a different place now. A short research in Internet confirmed the news. At the end of last year, after over 30 people died within few months due to various accidents (caused mostly by excessive consumption of drugs and alcohol), the government decided to react. Many riverside bars were closed, water activities were controlled more rigorously, drugs disappeared from the local menus and all parties had to end no later than half past eleven. We decided to give it a try.  

As I've already said (or wrote) before, I am a hug fan of bus rides. I know there are much faster means of transport nowadays, but I still prefer to travel in an old fashioned way, even if it does take long. And I normally have absolutely no problems falling asleep as soon as I get on board, no matter how bad the conditions are. I'm used to it and I guess I actually like it. Or at least I did before I came to Laos. The local buses were on a best way to become my most hated way to travel in a shortest time. We have taken the most expensive tickets just to get a VIP bus, which was supposed to be the most comfortable one. To be honest I haven't really noticed the difference as it was just as ancient as the other ones were. OK, it had a toilet, but it remained closed and sealed with tape for the entire ride. But that was still the smallest of the problems. The worst of it was the road itself. I know it is a mountain region, but I still can not stop wondering how drunk those people were, when they were actually building it. I don't believe it ever goes straight for more than 100 meter. Instead it keeps turning right and left without a break. This alone might have not been such a big deal, if the bus wasn't constantly jumping up and down at the same time. It made my stomach travel all the way through my body the whole time and I don't believe it enjoyed the trip much. I never have any problems with vehicles, but this time it took all my strength not to get seriously sick and I was counting minutes till we reached Vang Vieng at least. And I could only envy David, who was seating next to me, concentrating on nothing but his book, totally unimpressed by the state of the road or the bus itself.

Vang Vieng was an extraordinary place. Every building was a hotel, restaurant or a travel agency. There seemed to be no other businesses in town. The only problem was, they were totally empty. We haven't seen any other guest in our hotel, though it was a nice and pretty cheap one. The whole town actually looked kind of spooky. It was obvious it was designed for tourist. There were hardly any local dishes on the menu, but you had a whole list of burgers and pizzas to choose form and the TV was playing Friends or Southpark all the time. And for sure, there still were many tourist around, but apparently not enough to fill the empty spaces. It was as if the entire place was working on slow motion now. But the nature was just as wonderful as ever. We decided to skip the overpriced trips the local agencies were offering and once again rent a bike instead. The stony road was not an easy one, but the big cave we have visited, surrounded by amazingly turquoise water we could swim in was definitely worth the trouble. It was a perfect day and we were even a bit sorry that we had already booked our tickets to Vientiane. I guess we wouldn't mind staying there for one more day.

Fortunately, the weather got worse the next day and we didn't mind leaving that much anymore. The road got a bit better too and we took a mini bus this time, which was in a slightly better condition than the last VIP bus, making the journey a bit easier. Less than four hours later we were in the capital of the country. Vientiane is not a very impressive place. It is a nice town, with a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere, but to be honest, it does not really have a lot to offer. There are some nice temples and other interesting buildings, but a day is enough to see it all. But there is one good reason to hang around a bit longer, the food, which as far as we were concerned was the best in Laos. We made sure to try as much of it as we could before hitting the road again. This time we were planning to travel down south, up to the very southern edge of the country, facing 14 long hours of a bus ride...

Unforgettable elephants

Getting to Laos seemed to be a bit more complicated than we expected. Or maybe we just got spoiled by the efficient transport we had the chance to experience in Thailand. We were not really that far form Luang Prabang, which we wanted to make our next stop, but it seemed that getting there would take us some long hours no matter which option we chose, so we decided to take the most relaxed and (hopefully) most enjoyable one. We were getting on a minibus to get to the border, from where we would catch a slowboat down the Mekong River. The whole journey would take us three days (with overnight stops). It seemed a long time, but was still much more appealing than a bus ride, which would take us 30 uncomfortable hours.

Visa formalities went pretty quickly, since David as Swiss didn't need any and I simply got a 30 days visa on arrival. Although I have to admit the border was a total chaos. And so was the boat we were taking. We had seat numbers on our tickets, but we soon found out there were no seats like ours on that boat. The highest number we could see was 70 and the seat numbers of our group were somewhere between 85 and 100. And the boat was full anyway, so that we could hardly get on board, not to mention finding an empty seat. Fortunately after a few discussions and a lot of complaining form our side, a second boat was opened and we could choose whatever seats we wanted. Although few moments later both boats were filled up to the top, including additional plastic chairs and people sitting or lying on the floor right next to the engine. I guess their ride was far from enjoyable in the end. We could not really complain about ours though.

The slowboat trip took us around 7 hours on each of the two days, but although the boat was crowded and the seats were not too comfortable it was not as bad as we thought. A good book and lovely views from the river made the hours pass quickly. The nice thing was, we had enough time to meet a lot of other travelers, which we kept meeting later on everywhere we went. It gives you the feeling you're surrounded by friends no matter which city you head to.

Luang Prabang turned out to be a beautiful place with a really nice atmosphere. It is not exactly big, which allowed us to do everything on foot. And there certainly was a lot to see. The temples were again more of the shiny type. Nevertheless, we found them quite interesting since they were a bit different than the ones in Thailand we have seen so far. But walking along the river side was still our favorite activity. We decided we liked Laos a lot. The weather was nice, food was awesome and people were friendly and easygoing. It felt nice to be there.

We especially enjoyed the local night market, which was our favorite place to spent the evenings, making our wallets slimmer an our backpacks much fuller than they ever were. It is a great place, filled with local handmade products and lovely souvenirs and the prices are nearly always negotiable, especially for a trained professional like David, who was using all the experience gathered in Central Asia to get me the things I necessarily needed and desperately wanted (meaning very important items like for example an elephant pillow) for a fraction of the original price. The only thing we didn't manage to buy was a dress I was looking for for some time now. It was a simple one, nothing special, but I liked it a lot. I already saw it in Bangkok, but decided to buy it later on, as I didn't want to add extra weight to my backpack before our Myanmar trip. Unfortunately, they didn't sell it anywhere else in Thailand, so I was happy to spot it in Luang Prabang. However, the price they wanted for it was 5 times higher than in Bangkok, which we were of course not willing to pay. But every time we tried to bargain (and we did tried a few stands) they were all starting with the same story, how it is hand made in this very village using only local material, which makes it extremely valuable. Sad enough it always had a huge “made in Thailand” label on it, but they would not admit the truth even when we pointed it out to them. They were honestly trying to explain to us, that they put the label on purpose, as they were planning to sell those extra valuable dresses to their neighbouring country as well. Yeah, right... They were willing to lower the prices afterwards, but we decided buying anything from someone who lies to us while looking us straight in the eyes is not something we would like to do if we could avoid it.

Already on our first day in town we have noticed a huge poster advertising a whole day elephant experience in a nearby village. Ever since our ride in Chiang Mai we could not get those animals out of our heads and we thought we have to do something about it. The trip was not exactly cheap, but also not more expensive than it would be in Thailand and we decided it's worth the risk. We were going to All Lao Elephant Camp to learn all the commands and try riding elephants on our own. We were both totally excited and could hardly wait till we get there. The camp was set in a beautiful surroundings, right on a river in the middle of a forest, which made it all even more amazing. Our group consisted only of four people (including us two), all wearing very professional elephant trainer outfits, so the atmosphere was great from the very beginning. And the animals were as marvelous as ever. But it was a totally different experience than the one we had before. This time we were really going through the forest, there was no wide flat path like the one we went through in Chiang Mai. Now we were going up and down the hill, between the trees, through streams and mud, which made it somehow feel a lot more real. I couldn't stop smiling through the entire ride, or at least until the moment where our guide suggested for me to change places with David and get on the elephant's neck. Those of you how know me well, will be able to imagine my panic reaction. I was totally horrified! But at the end that was what we paid for and I knew I would have to try it sooner or later, so I might just as well do it immediately. It was a bit hard at the beginning, but as soon as I found the right spot to sit on and relaxed a bit more I actually started enjoying it. In the end I absolutely loved it!

It was the second part though, which we were all waiting for. After lunch each of us got his own elephant to ride, guide and bath. It was just as awesome as I imagined it to be. Getting on and off the elephant was definitely the hardest part of the task, but since I was no longer deadly scared it all went quite smoothly. And my elephant, a fantastic girl named Ping Pong, was simply the sweetest creature I have ever met. She was moving so carefully and gently, that I hardly ever noticed us going up or down. I guess she noticed she has a total coward on top of her and decided not to make things worse for both of us. She was reacting to my commands too, which made me as proud and happy as ever. And the bath was the best part of it all. Going through a river on a back of a huge creature, which splashes you with water when you least expect it is definitely an unforgettable experience. The elephants seemed to enjoy it too, as they were playing like little children, making everyone wet. David's elephant decided not to waist his time on details and simply disappeared in the river with David on his back. Not even his trunk was sticking out, which left my husband looking as if he was sitting on the surface of the water. As we rode back through the jungle, all wet and smiling we felt happier than ever. We didn't want to part from our animals at all. And I can honestly say the trip was worth every cent we've paid for it.

Into the jungle

We have finally made it to Chiang Mai! A bit later than planned, but we were there and wanted to make the most of our time. The possibilities in this city can really give you a headache. Everywhere you look you see a tourist agency or trekking center, all offering endless number of trips and activities, making the choice much more complicated. Walking, biking, climbing, elephant rides, rafting, kayaking, dancing, cooking, meditation, yoga... The list seems to have no end. And even of you know exactly what you want to do, there is still a whole bunch of companies to choose from, so that making your mind up may be quite a tricky process. But it's worth it, as many of them will do everything they can to turn your visit in Thailand into an unforgettable experience (one way or another).

We were lucky enough to make a reservation at the Julie Guest House, which is famous not only for its cozy rooms and great atmosphere, but also for the amazing trips they organize for their guests. They took their time to understand what we wanted and I have to say the offers they made us where a perfect match. Before we noticed we had a whole plan worked out and we couldn't wait for it all to start happening.

But it's not only the trips that makes this area worth visiting. The city itself has much to offer too. It is a typical tourist location, with bars and hostels on every corner, but it is also a lovely town, full of nice buildings and wonderful temples. After all the stone ruins we have seen in the last two cities we were up for gold and shiny again and this time we have found it much more impressive than in Bangkok. Although we could not quite understand why anybody would put a Donald Duck in front of one of the most significant old temples in town, but we just guessed they had their reasons. All in all we liked Chiang Mai a lot. I especially fell in love with all the second hand bookstores the city was filled with. They were just the way I liked them most, huge spaces filled up to the ceiling with great books for little money. I don't even want to know how much time I spent running between the shelves and choosing the perfect titles, if it wasn't for the trips we had already booked, I am not sure David would have been able to ever drag me out of them. All I can say is that I could hardly close my backpack afterwards and it was far above the 10 kg weight I used to be so proud of.

The first activity on our list was the cooking class. We are both huge fans of Thai cuisine and wanted to do it for a long time now. The decision was not easy, as the competition in this area is huge, but we finally choose Sammy's Organic Farm and I have to say it was a perfect choice. Although it was not too far from the city it felt like a different world, full of plants, flowers and animals, with a fantastic familiar atmosphere. We felt at home at once. And cooking with Sammy was a real fun. He not only showed us how to prepare the dishes, but also told us a lot about Thai food and culture. And his sense of humor and brilliant stories made it all a highly enjoyable experience. But the real highlight was the food! Each of us could choose 5 different dishes which we were preparing on our own, guided by Sam and his wife. And the results definitely exceeded my expectations. I would have never thought I can cook something as good as that! At the end of the day we were all tired, proud and so full we could hardly move. It was a great day!

We had no time to rest as the next day was already fully planned. We have booked a short trekking trip through the jungle, water rafting and what was most important, an elephant ride. I was so excited I could hardly sleep! It was over an hour drive from the city and we were all squeezed into a truck that was just slightly too small for this amount of people, so that one of us was always hanging a bit outside of it, but we managed to survive the ride without any serious injuries. On the way we stopped at the famous orchid farm, which turned out to be just a bigger garden with more tourist than flowers, so that it was quite hard to take a photo without other people on it. I guess it is simply the first stop for all the trips from Chiang Mai.

It was the second stop we were all waiting for, the elephant camp. We had to wait a bit till it was our turn to ride, which left us some time to feed and have some fun with the elephants standing around. They truly are amazing creatures. I will never be able to understand how something so huge can move so elegantly, without making even the slightest noise. And though they are dying to get the banana or sugar cane out of your hand they are as gentle as you can only imagine. For me it was love from first sight.

As our guide told us we were missing an elephant and would have to create groups of three (meaning two on the little bench and one on the neck) to make it work, I protested without thinking. I could share an elephant with David, but I was not having any other people on it! I was waiting far too long for this trip and there was just no way I was going to make any compromises, even if it left me looking like a spoiled kid. And I guess they took my words seriously, as we got not only an elephant for us two, but also an additional mini version. We were riding through the jungle on a big mama, with the baby running all around us, creating quite an impressive chaos, but making the whole trip even more amazing. We enjoyed every minute of it and when the ride was over, we were both sure, that was not our last meeting with those marvelous animals. We needed more!

However, we have enjoyed the rest or our trip nearly as much as we did the elephants. The jungle turned out to be pretty crowded with tourists, but it didn't change the fact, that the nature in this area was simply beautiful. Although we are traveling in the dry season the north of Thailand seemed to be as green as ever. I really found it hard to imagine, that it can get even greener as soon as the rainy months come. It felt great just to be walking among banana leaves and bamboos trees. I only hope we will be able to repeat it in a less touristic place, even if the trek would be much harder then. We were a bit worried that the white water rafting part would be a bit boring, as the river was at quite at low level at that moment. We regretted not being able to come back later this year when the rain starts. And I guess someone up there heard us complaining, because before we even noticed a storm started coming up. A real nice tropical storm, with drops of cool rain coming down on us, making us wish we had something more to wear than our swimsuits. We were all wet before we even got to our boats and it was a bit freezing too. Well we wanted more water and we got it... It proved to be enough for a short trip. It was not exactly an adrenalin kick, but it was fun anyway and it gave our amazing day a perfect ending. We came back to our hotel dead on our feet and slept better than ever, which was good, as a day after we took a minibus to head to another country on our list. It was time for Laos!

The queen of cities

It felt good to be back in Thailand. So far we have only spent a few days in the capital, but somehow it still felt like coming back home. We decided to take a train to Ayutthaya, an ancient city 60 km north from Bangkok. Although the train was over an hour delayed, we decided not to complain, since the tickets were a ridiculous 25 cents each. We liked the city from the moment we have reached it, but we were not planning to stay for long. A day or two we thought. And that was exactly what we said when our new bungalow-neighbour, asked us how long we wanted to stay. He told us not to make too many plans, as we may end up spending much more time in the queen of all cities, as he called it. Back then we had no idea how right he was.

Being back in Thailand had one huge advantage, we were back to high accommodation standards for little money, so we rented a lovely bungalow about a minute walk from the ruins we were looking forward to explore. So far our idea of local temples and palaces was like all the newly renovated, shiny golden buildings we have seen in Bangkok. Now we were eager to see the really old, stone ones. And we were not disappointed. There was nothing new or shiny about them, which was exactly what made them so impressive. The city seemed to be packed with magnificent stone constructions and we were told it is only a small part of the whole complex.

But it was not the temples I remembered best from our sightseeing trip. It was the elephants. Unfortunately they did not look too happy. Don't get me wrong, as far as I can tell their owners were taking good care of them and they did look healthy and all, but they were still made to run up and down the city center in some ridiculous clothes carrying tourists around. I believe it is not a life you wish for as an elephant and it's not my idea of a nice elephant ride neither. But I was still impressed by the elegance and carefulness with which they moved. I expected them to be walking heavily, making a lot of noise, but what I saw was exactly the opposite. They were amazing! And I was sure I want to get to know those creatures better and try riding one myself, but I decided to put it off until we could do it in a nicer environment.

Unfortunately, David was not getting better. My cold was gone and forgotten, but his seemed only to be getting worse. It actually got so bad, that we decided to skip all plans we had for his birthday and spend the day visiting the local private hospital. The place was very nice and we got a good medical advice and all the medicines we needed, but David still ended up spending his birthday in bed with antibiotics instead of a birthday cake. And the diagnosis was clear, we should not travel, especially on air conditioned buses as long as he's not better again. We ended up stuck in the queen of cities for a whole week.

Being sick sucks, no matter where you are, but Ayutthaya was not the worst city to get stuck in. We had a nice and comfortable bungalow, our own terrace and enough books to keep us occupied. We also had a few restaurants around, serving absolutely amazing local dishes, which I ended up eating for breakfast and dinner every day, not wanting to waste my time on eggs and toasts. And we had the neighbours who knew the town by heart and were always ready to help. They also wanted to make sure we would try all the fresh fruits the city had to offer. And trust me, they were delicious! All other plans were put on hold, David was concentrating on getting better and I was dividing my time between reading, enjoying various massages and shopping on the local market. It was not the way we have planned it, but I believe we really needed such rest. Our bodies had a lot to cope with for the last few months. We were constantly changing countries and climates not really giving them much time to reset, not even during Christmas. It was time to sit down and relax. It was not easy, as there was still so much we wanted to see and do, but it all had to wait.

We were both really happy and relieved when David finally got better, but leaving the city was still not an easy decision. We have never stay anywhere for so long and I have to admit it felt nice. But we were also eager to move on. We absolutely loved Thailand and wanted to see more of it. We were especially looking forward to visit Chiang Mai, where we had some serious plans, including our two new passions, Thai food and elephants. We were even thinking about heading there immediately, but fortunately, our neighbours advised us against it, convincing us to make at least a short stop in Sukhothai. And I have to say I'm really glad they did.

The second of the ancient cities was just as magnificent as we had imagined it to be. One stony temple after another, spread all over the green hills of the area they all made an amazing impression. Instead of taking a bicycle or a motorbike as most tourist do we decided to go for an extra long walk. We did enough sitting in Ayutthaya, so or bodies were ready for action again. At the end of the long day we were dead tired, but happy and satisfied. We were back on track again and it felt great!