Photo update

Kyrgyzstan 10 October 2012

Uzbekistan 14 October 2012

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

The changes in our plan required some new visas, so we got stuck in Bishkek for a couple of days. We actually started to feel at home there. Especially at the Dordoy Baazar, where people were already greeting us like good friends, asking how our cars were doing and what we were looking for this time. But it was time to move on. We wanted to drive to Osh and cross to Uzbekistan. The road didn't seem an easy one, as it was going above 3500m and we heard it started snowing in the upper parts, which was not the best news for Karossi and his summer tires. We were also not sure how he would handle the mountains, as we never tried to drive so high. We had no other option but to give it a try and find out.

It was a nice sunny day when we left and we were hoping to make it to the Toktogul Lake. The views were splendid and they where only getting better with time. We were driving between enormous mountains, getting higher and higher with every kilometer we drove. It wasn't long till we saw the first snow, but the road was clear and Karossi didn't seem to mind the attitude. And the view was splendid. Everything was going great until suddenly, without any warning we got stuck in a traffic jam. Right at the peak of the mountain. We came out of a turn and saw long lines of cars covering all the way up to the tunnel we were suppose to drive through. We were told the problems were caused by snow and ice covering the last part of the road, but we soon saw what the real cause of the delay was.

You can tell a lot about people in Central Asia, but one thing is sure, they are not the best drivers. They are very nice and extremely charming, but the moment they get behind the wheel, they turn into monsters. I guess that plus the state of some roads is the reason why there is no car insurance in this country. We kind of got used to it, at least as far as it is possible, but sometimes they still manage to surprise us. And what we saw on that peak was the biggest chaos we have came across so far. The road was made for two lines of cars, one in each direction. Or at least we were sure it was this way. Local drivers seemed sure it was big enough for three cars to drive side by side, all trying to get to the top. Unfortunately the drivers coming from the other side of the peak seemed to have the same idea, so the road got stuck for good in no time. The whole chaos was accompanied by a lot of honking and shouting, as of course no one wanted to drive back and make place for the cars coming from the opposite direction. It took some time and a lot of noise to clear the street and let the cars pass, but as soon as they did, drivers started lining up again, just as they did before. And so the street got stuck again, just as it did before. And when the cars from the opposite direction started getting out of the tunnel the whole circus started again.

We spend a few long hours up there, being able to witness this process quite a few times. We thought those people will finally notice that they are only making things worse, but somehow they never did. But we had fun in that traffic jam, I can tell you that. We met some great people and learned a bit more about Kyrgyzstan. And we were very happy to have our new winter jackets, as it gets quite cold at 3500m. And we finally made it to the tunnel, tough it was already dark when we did. And the road really was in poor condition. Snow and ice covered it thickly, so that we were glad to have a four wheel drive once again. With this and David's driving skills we somehow made it to the top with our summer tires and we were finally able to enter the tunnel. We were told one of the reason for the traffic jam is the tunnel itself. It has absolutely no air conditioning, so that only a limited number of cars is allowed to enter it at the same time. They used to pay no attention to it, but a few years ago they had a traffic jam there and a few people died in it, because of the fumes. We understood it the moment we entered. You could hardly breath in there. The air was so thick and gray that we could hardly see our own lights. And though we had all the windows closed the smell of fumes was everywhere.

We were very glad to be out! It was high time to find a place to sleep, but we decided to drive down to the valley, as the temperatures on the peak were already below freezing. We found a very nice spot, camping in the snow, but though we went down to 2500m it was freezing all the same. We had ice in the car when we woke up, but thanks to out high tech sleeping bags we were able to survive it quite well, even though it was the coldest night we had so far.

We have managed the second mountain crossing without any problems, being able to enjoy the views with hardly any traffic. And the views were amazing indeed. Lake Toktogul was simply splendid! Deep blue water with different rock formations made a fantastic impression, so that when we found a restaurant with a lake view we didn't hesitate for long. And we ended up eating the best fish I have ever eaten with the best view I could imagine. It was worth going through the cold night a day before.

I have to say the road from Bishkek to Osh was the prettiest one we have ever driven. All the way up and down we were able to enjoy one splendid view after another. Mountains and valleys, rivers and lakes made our drive unforgettable. And we got to see some animals too. They were walking happily along the highway, totally undisturbed by all the cars around them. I started feeling really sorry for all people taking an airplane between those two cities. They have no idea what they're missing.  

Plans are for changing

We had a plan! It was a perfect one, we were sure about it. It wasn't a very detailed plan, but just one that covers the necessary minimum. It took us quite some time and effort to work it out though and we were extremely proud about it. But we still decided to stay as flexible and open minded as our visa situation allows, ready to make changes and compromises whenever necessary. And sitting here right now, in the middle of Kyrgyzstan I am very glad we did.

Kyrgyzstan was not a part of our route. We never even really considered coming here, though I am not really sure what the reason was. Maybe we just knew too little about this place to include it in our master plan. We simply never thought about it. At least not until the third or fourth traveler we met told us we definitely have to go there. We decided to do some research and see if the country would be worth a detour. The first information we saw was all we needed to make our minds up. Kyrgyzstan as the first country in Central Asia decided to allow travelers from Europe to enter the country without a visa. We couldn't miss such a chance! And so we're here, in the middle of a country we never thought we would visit.

The formalities at the border went pretty quickly and the officials were extremely friendly. They were not really interested in checking our car neither, especially when a group of prostitutes came to a passport control. All eyes turned and we could have smuggled an elephant without anyone noticing it. And then one of the officials got a brilliant idea, that if David wanted him to, he would just deny me the entrance to the country keeping me at the border and David could continue the journey with one of the “working ladies”. “Mister, 50 Euro and no problem, very good women”. I am glad to say my husband somehow managed to resist the temptation and we're still traveling together ;)

We have reached Bishkek in the evening and the first thing we saw was a total darkness. We were even wondering if they had some temporary blackout, but we soon found out that it is a permanent problem. There are hardly any street lights in the city and only a small part of them works anyway. So you're on your own fighting your way through the streets, without light or paved sideways, but with holes bigger then yourself waiting in every dark corner. Driving in those condition is not much easier either. Some holes can cost you more than just one broken wheel and the fellow drivers are not making your life easier, since most of them drive with their lights off. Finding Bishkek Guesthouse was also a challenge, 7th floor in a building with no light and no lift, but we have finally made it and the extra friendly stuff made up for everything else.

In the morning we saw a different side of Bishkek. We saw a nice green city, surrounded by mountains and bazaars bustling with life. The holes in the roads and sideways were still there, but suddenly they didn't seem so bad. I especially liked Osh Bazaar, since it was the first market on our route, that really looked the way I always imagined it should. I was waiting for all the fruits, spices and nuts, for all the different smells and colours of Central Asia and I finally got it! And it was great!

We needed some spare parts for the car, so we headed towards Dordoy Bazaar which we heard was the right place for such business. And it definitely was. The market was huge! It seemed to have no end and the car parts department was more then we could have wised for. David and Gerrit looked as if Christmas came earlier this year. Thousands of tools and parts, all at least 50% cheaper than in Europe. We spent endless hours there, buying, checking and exchanging. Karossi got some new silencers and a fancy Russian windshield, as his old one had quite a bad whole after it got hit by a stone. The underneath of Gerrit's car got a total makeover to keep it from making funny sounds and movements which accompanied it since Mongolia. Both cars felt as new!

However car parts was not the only thing we were after. We were really lucky with the weather in Kyrgyzstan, but we soon have noticed, that the nights are getting very cold. We also knew that we will be traveling in the mountain regions, up to 3600m high. We needed some serious equipment! It took some time to make the perfect choice, but finally each of us left the market with a brand new winter jacket and few other pieces to keep us warm in all conditions. Their promised us we will be fine up to minus 40 degrees Celsius, but I really hope we will never have the chance to test it.

I have to admit I was a bit disappointed with Kyrgyzstan at first. I guess I expected something more like Mongolia, a bit uncivilized, with gers and lots of animals. That's why I was really looking forward to lake Issyk Kol, hoping to find it all there. But the lake, especially its north part was just one village after another, all with standard houses and soviet style hotels, full with locals and tourists. For the first time in weeks we really had to look hard to find a nice spot for the night. And the one we ended up with for our first night was way below our standards. But we had more luck on the second day and we found a nice spot to enjoy the lake, which was indeed a very nice one. And I have to say, even if the gers and empty spaces are hard to find the mountains are everywhere and they are absolutely amazing. They tower over you no matter where you are, offering a splendid view no matter where you look. And although I'm no mountain freak, I absolutely loved it and was glad that we added this country to our perfect plan.

Anyway, it seems that Kyrgyzstan will not remain the only change in our route. We wanted to go to Uzbekistan and then travel through Turkmenistan to Iran, but the government in Turkmenistan decided to spoil our perfect vision. First we heard some disturbing news from other travelers we met, which were later on confirmed by our visa agency. The chances of getting a transit visa for the time we planned were scarce not to say non-existent. We could try to get a visa for November, but it could take around 4 weeks, because of some public holidays. And of course we had no guarantee we would get it in the end. Adding to it that our Uzbek visa expires at the end of October we knew it's not an option. The only suitable solution would be to go from Uzbekistan back to Kazakhstan and try to get on a ferry to Azerbaijan, from which we can cross to Iran. The only problem is, no one knows when exactly the ferry goes and how much it will cost when we get there. But we decided to give it a try, so keep your fingers crossed!  

Photo update

Kazachstan 20 September 2012

Kyrgyzstan 30 September 2012